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automatic sit/stand desk
by：Meixin
2020-04-30
* Please vote for this guidance!
** My girlfriend recently moved into a new house and needed a table because I had some experience in making furniture so I suggested that I make her a table for Christmas.
So we went to Ikea to look at their designs and got some ideas.
We stumbled across one of their automatic desks.
This is what I think).
She really liked the idea and asked if I could do the same thing.
My electrical engineer said \"Yes, of course, easy\" and that\'s it.
It wasn\'t until I started designing it that I found out that I made a mistake. . . . .
Despite my first doubt, I am very happy with the final product!
So here I am sitting at the automatic desk!
The table is made up of 4 Acacia panels using 3 different sizes.
The table top is a panel measuring 1200x600mm connected to two legs using a steel bracket.
The two legs are made of two panels of 1200X405mm and cut into blocks of 450x405mm and 750x405mm.
Each 450mm pieces is connected to 750mm pieces with two heavy duty 350mm stretch slides.
They act as a guide, extending the legs to a height of about 1100mm.
The support beam is made of a 300x1200mm panel cut to 1130mm.
This beam connects the legs together and gives the linear actuator something that can be pushed.
The moving \"lifting force\" is provided by a single 30 cm linear actuator connected to the bottom of the support beam and the center of the table top.
The motor of the actuator is controlled by the Arduino nano and the DC motor driver.
Two buttons control movement.
The laminate board (Acacia)-
Bunnings Warehouse 1x1200x600 x 18mm1x 1200x405 x 18mm2x 1200x300x18mm. The original idea was to take some pine boards, pin and wood, but then I found these.
Made the Hehuan hard board and thought I \'d save the hassle by designing tables to use them (
I also like the color and appearance of the wood very much).
Steel bracket-
Bunnings ware2x 50 x 5mm8x 50x20x5 mmInitially I only bought 8 pcs of desktop in 50x20x5mm as if it were curved.
The 50 pack 20mm wooden ironing plate 20mm screw will penetrate the panel about 15mm.
Pay 350mm a month to draw slidesunfortunely I lost all the records, exactly what I bought, but they are all like this.
The Electronics 30cm linear actuator is the most expensive part of the build and I only use one, although you can get two in order to increase stability
I will bring it up later.
2x short-lived buttons don\'t need anything special here, pick something that matches the look of your table and I got those.
The flange button encircling the flange helps with the installation, and I think aluminum will look good on the wood.
Connect the button to the 4-core cable of the control box.
12 V 1A power supplies manage to remove one of them from a box of garbage.
Power boardI uses a Power board with four ports, but you can get any size that fits your needs.
I used one of the DC motor drives that I put.
Arduino nano is easy to find online.
Control boxI created a box to hold controls using my 3D printer \"big boi\", but you can buy a box if you can\'t access the 3D printer.
Is 240 sand and 400 sand sandpaper optional but not optional?
You don\'t need it if you\'re really lazy, but like so many things in life, you really should.
Wood dyeing can make a piece of cheap wood look better and show the features of the wood.
Varnish is optional but highly recommended as it improves the look and durability of the table.
If you are going to buy a computer with your desk, I suggest you buy one.
Fix the cable in the box.
Fix the cable to the cable clip outside the box.
What tools do you need to create the basics of the table: table hand drill with a variety of drill bits, for drilling out the mounting hole position, etc. . .
Screwdriver/bit drive for screw screws!
Round/manual SawTo cut the panel into size.
Paint brushA fine hair paint brush apply varnish.
Apply wood stains with RagTo.
Electric soldering iron for electrical connection.
Line/cutting line.
Using the Acacia panel, we only need to do three cuts, once for the support beam, once for each panel of the legs (
You can stack the two panels and cut them only once.
I cut all the parts myself with a standard round saw, although what you bought from the hardware store usually does (for a cost).
You can also use a hand saw if you have patience.
LegsEach for two 1200x405mm panels needs to be cut into two pieces, one 750mm and one 450mm.
The support beam needs to be cut to support the beam so it can be installed-
Between the legs.
I subtract the initial length (
4 times the thickness of the panel plus 2 times the thickness of the stretch slide).
1130mm.
Drawing slides we need to use drawing slides to connect two legs to make a long \"slide\" leg.
I installed the track about 100mm from the edge of the panel with the width of the slide (about 45. 5mm)
This makes the center of the slide about 123mm from the edge of the panel.
Gently draw a line where the center of each slide will be on all the leg panels.
Place the track on a longer leg with a large side face facing down.
Align the top of the track with the top of the panel to make sure that the end of the extended slider extends to the edge of the panel.
When you reach out the slides, you will see that there are many mounting holes, choose about 3 and mark their location on the line you draw for the center of the slides.
Do the same for another long panel, then flip the drawing slide and mark the mounting holes on the small end of the slide on the center line of the small panel.
Once you have marked all the mounting holes of the drawing slide, use a small bit of about 2mm to drill a small hole about 5mm deep at each mounting point.
Don\'t go all the way!
Mounting bracket we now need to mark the mounting hole of the bracket which holds the leg to the support beam and the leg to the desktop.
The table top I ended up using 3 brackets for each leg to hold the table top to the legs as my original two small brackets didn\'t look good enough.
Depending on the bracket you are using, you need to change their position on the panel.
For stands for mounting legs to the table top, mark the center of them (
Same as the slide, in my example, about 50mm from the edge, with one in the middle).
Align the center of the bracket with the center line and align the edge of the bracket with the end on a small leg panel (
Use scrap blocks or flat things to make sure the edges of the stand are square with the edges of the leg block).
After marking the position of the mounting hole, drill it out like a slide.
Support beam I attach a bracket to the center of both ends of the support beam, with a bracket on the bottom side of each end.
Knowing that the beam will be attached to the position of the leg, you can mark the position where the support beam bracket will be placed on the long leg panel and drill out the mounting holes.
After all the brackets and sliding mounting holes are drilled out, you can start to assemble it.
Connect the slide and bracket to the legs using 20mm wooden screws, then combine the two legs with the support beam.
Note: For brackets connected to the bottom edge of the support beam, you can use longer wooden screws to increase the support.
Time to mark the position of the lower side bracket on the desktop.
For my table the legs are connected directly to the center of the table top.
To calculate the position of the bracket on the underside of the desktop, I first calculated the difference between the width of the desktop and the width of the leg.
I divided this number by 2 and added it to the distance I placed the stand from the edge of the leg.
I removed a bracket from my leg and used it to mark the position of the mounting hole of the bracket.
Now is also a good time to mark the mounting holes for linear actuators.
The bracket has the position of two screw holes, the middle of which should be aligned with the center of the table.
After drilling out the mounting hole position, place the table top on the leg and attach the top to the bracket using screws (
Using the most external mounting holes, we will lift the table using the actuator to reveal the other mounting holes).
At this point, we can connect the linear actuator to the table.
The linear actuator is equipped with 2 mounting brackets.
One will connect to the support beam and the other will connect to the center of the desktop where we marked earlier.
The actuator is connected to the bracket using a single pin.
Attach the two brackets to the actuator and screw the top bracket to the underside of the table top.
Let the actuator hang under the table and move it to a position so that the bracket at the bottom of the actuator sits flat with the support beam.
Mark the mounting holes of the bottom bracket in the position on the support beam and drill them out.
At this point, you can use a 12 volt power supply to power the actuator and test the desk.
The internal limit switch will stop once the actuator reaches its maximum expansion (
Has also been fully signed).
If you want to finish the table top structure at this point, use the actuator to lift the table, expose the other mounting holes on the stand, and use more screws to secure the table top on the legs.
Now that we \'ve put the table together, it\'s time to take it apart!
The sanding is a bit optional, but it gives the table a better finish and it also eliminates any burrs generated during the cutting process.
At this point (before sanding)
I made a hole in the cable pipe.
Use the 60mm hole cutting drill to cut a hole in the back upper right corner of the desktop.
Cut down from the top of the table as it will provide a better finish by leaving fewer chips on the table.
Polish each panel with 240 sandpaper and gently polish all surfaces (
Wrapping sandpaper with a piece of wood will give you something to support).
When grinding, always remember to polish with grain and never go through grain.
Take the extra time to remove any debris or burrs on the edge of the cutting panel, as well as any pencil marks made when marking the position of the mounting hole.
Dyeing the wood is definitely optional, but in my case I want the table to be a bit darker, so I used walnut stains on all the pieces.
Wood dyeing will also reveal the complex patterns of wood (
And any scratches you make. . . . ). I use the off-
Cut off the support beam, test the stain I bought and be satisfied with the result I applied the stain to the table.
If you decide to get the wood dirty, here are some simple steps.
Paint is also optional, but it is highly recommended that even if you do not stain the wood, as it adds durability and gives a good finish to the table.
I used this oil base, satin, clear varnish and the result was great!
The basic steps to paint if you paint outside, pay attention to bugs, unlike how they look attracted by varnish, will stick to your lovely board.
The wiring of the electronic equipment is very direct and there is a wiring diagram on it.
The electronics consists of two main parts, the press box and the Arduino control and power supply.
The button BoxI uses a small aluminum box with a flange to contain buttons that control the height of the table.
The flange at the bottom of the box helps to install the box under the desktop.
Unfortunately, there are a lot of solid parts inside the box and you have to get into it.
That means you can\'t fix them with the nuts on the button, so I ended up sticking them together.
The back of the button is 12mm in diameter, so I opened two 12mm holes on one side of the box and drilled it out.
When drilling big holes like this (
Especially metal)
Don\'t start with 12mm bits, start with a small one and gradually increase the size of the bits until you reach 12mm bits.
To take into account the 4-core cable, I drilled a small 4mm hole on the back of the box.
Wiring I connect the button with a 10 kohm drop down resistor (
Although I don\'t think Nano is necessary).
The other side of the button is connected to 5 v, so the input pin gets higher when the button is pressed.
The 4-core wire carries two signals from the button, as well as 5 v and GND, and the cable tie inside the box helps to prevent the cable from being torn apart.
Now removing the table is a good time to mark the mounting holes in the press box.
I lined up the front of the box, flush the edge of the table on the right and mark the position of the hole and drill it out.
If you choose the right button then you really don\'t need micro
Controller or motor driver for this desk.
The reason I want to include one is that if a button is pressed, the table is either up completely or down.
It also opens the door for you to include other features like remote control on your desk.
Connect Arduino and motor controller (
Reference map)
The Arduino has two jobs, read the control from the button and relay the command to the motor controller to adjust the height of the desktop.
Button input to 2 digital pins on Arduino (
Pins 7 and 8 in my case)
, The three outputs required by the motor controller come from the three digital pins on the Arduino (4,5,6)
To the enable pin and the two inputs required for the motor A on the motor drive.
The Arduino code is very basic, it just waits for the button to be pressed and uses the \"pulse input\" function to determine if it is pressed at once or on both buttons (
Press 2 times in 1 second).
On the double press, the motor will open in the direction of 50 seconds, which is about the time it takes for the table to move completely in one direction.
This technique may be a bit of a problem, but it\'s not a big enough problem for me to want to change it.
Depending on which button is pressed, the motor controller drives the actuator motor forward or backward.
If the button is not pressed, the motor will be disabled.
The motor that supplies the linear actuator needs 12 V and the voltage is about 0.
Luckily, I found a 12-year-old. 9V, 1.
I have laid the 39A switch mode power supply and decided to use it.
Since the Power board I bought used with the table had only 4 ports, I decided to sneak on and cut two 240 V rated wires to the inside of the Power board.
Do not do this if you are unfamiliar or uncomfortable with handling high pressure!
The case to turn the power on is the only way to enter.
You will find a beautiful self in the box.
Contains the switch mode power module.
I removed the existing high voltage lines and replaced them with longer ones.
It was a bit difficult to turn on the Power board because I didn\'t want to damage the case and there was no proper safety screw.
After the Power board was turned on, I drilled a small hole for the wire and welded them to the power rail of the Power board (
This is for communication, so it doesn\'t matter which direction around you to weld them).
As you can see from the picture, I 3D printed the custom housing for Arduino, motor drive and power supply.
I won\'t talk about how I did this because there are a lot of 3D design tutorials and designing your own box is not really necessary, but I will include the STL of my box.
It\'s time to put the newly dyed and painted table back together with all the electronics!
I started reassembling the legs and support beams.
The easiest way to do this is to put a leg down, stand in place, and screw the support beam to this point.
By supporting the support beam on the stand of the other leg, you can screw the entire leg/support beam structure together.
I installed the control box and the Power board before I installed the desktop.
On the back of most power boards (mine had two)
Slot is being installed.
You need two small screws to use these (
Usually included)
Screw them directly into the back of the support beam (
Interval the same distance as the slot on the back of the Power board).
You then \"slide\" the Power board to these screws to install it.
To install the box containing the control electronics, I just fixed the box to the back of the support beam with three screws, close to the Power board.
When you\'re done, you can load the desktop like you did when you first assembled.
** Summary if you forget ** now we can install the button box!
Use 4 screws to connect the box to the mounting hole that was previously created.
If you want to implement some cable management for the table, the cable clips shown in the picture are very good for this table.
Comments on the final building I have only two issues with the design, all around the linear actuator.
Motor noise is an obvious problem, but the stability of the table is a bit confusing for me.
Obviously, because there is only one support point in the middle, there will be a little big --
Seeing the motion, but the problem seems to be magnified by the fact that the actuator tends to bend, I\'m not sure adding another actuator will solve the problem completely.
The good news is that when a bit of weight is loaded, a screen computer, etc, the desktop moves less.
Overall, it took only a few weeks for the project to be completed and it was not difficult.
Like my girlfriend, I am very happy with the end result and will definitely try to come up with more wood products/electronics projects in the future.
Good luck to all of you trying to make it yourself!
** My girlfriend recently moved into a new house and needed a table because I had some experience in making furniture so I suggested that I make her a table for Christmas.
So we went to Ikea to look at their designs and got some ideas.
We stumbled across one of their automatic desks.
This is what I think).
She really liked the idea and asked if I could do the same thing.
My electrical engineer said \"Yes, of course, easy\" and that\'s it.
It wasn\'t until I started designing it that I found out that I made a mistake. . . . .
Despite my first doubt, I am very happy with the final product!
So here I am sitting at the automatic desk!
The table is made up of 4 Acacia panels using 3 different sizes.
The table top is a panel measuring 1200x600mm connected to two legs using a steel bracket.
The two legs are made of two panels of 1200X405mm and cut into blocks of 450x405mm and 750x405mm.
Each 450mm pieces is connected to 750mm pieces with two heavy duty 350mm stretch slides.
They act as a guide, extending the legs to a height of about 1100mm.
The support beam is made of a 300x1200mm panel cut to 1130mm.
This beam connects the legs together and gives the linear actuator something that can be pushed.
The moving \"lifting force\" is provided by a single 30 cm linear actuator connected to the bottom of the support beam and the center of the table top.
The motor of the actuator is controlled by the Arduino nano and the DC motor driver.
Two buttons control movement.
The laminate board (Acacia)-
Bunnings Warehouse 1x1200x600 x 18mm1x 1200x405 x 18mm2x 1200x300x18mm. The original idea was to take some pine boards, pin and wood, but then I found these.
Made the Hehuan hard board and thought I \'d save the hassle by designing tables to use them (
I also like the color and appearance of the wood very much).
Steel bracket-
Bunnings ware2x 50 x 5mm8x 50x20x5 mmInitially I only bought 8 pcs of desktop in 50x20x5mm as if it were curved.
The 50 pack 20mm wooden ironing plate 20mm screw will penetrate the panel about 15mm.
Pay 350mm a month to draw slidesunfortunely I lost all the records, exactly what I bought, but they are all like this.
The Electronics 30cm linear actuator is the most expensive part of the build and I only use one, although you can get two in order to increase stability
I will bring it up later.
2x short-lived buttons don\'t need anything special here, pick something that matches the look of your table and I got those.
The flange button encircling the flange helps with the installation, and I think aluminum will look good on the wood.
Connect the button to the 4-core cable of the control box.
12 V 1A power supplies manage to remove one of them from a box of garbage.
Power boardI uses a Power board with four ports, but you can get any size that fits your needs.
I used one of the DC motor drives that I put.
Arduino nano is easy to find online.
Control boxI created a box to hold controls using my 3D printer \"big boi\", but you can buy a box if you can\'t access the 3D printer.
Is 240 sand and 400 sand sandpaper optional but not optional?
You don\'t need it if you\'re really lazy, but like so many things in life, you really should.
Wood dyeing can make a piece of cheap wood look better and show the features of the wood.
Varnish is optional but highly recommended as it improves the look and durability of the table.
If you are going to buy a computer with your desk, I suggest you buy one.
Fix the cable in the box.
Fix the cable to the cable clip outside the box.
What tools do you need to create the basics of the table: table hand drill with a variety of drill bits, for drilling out the mounting hole position, etc. . .
Screwdriver/bit drive for screw screws!
Round/manual SawTo cut the panel into size.
Paint brushA fine hair paint brush apply varnish.
Apply wood stains with RagTo.
Electric soldering iron for electrical connection.
Line/cutting line.
Using the Acacia panel, we only need to do three cuts, once for the support beam, once for each panel of the legs (
You can stack the two panels and cut them only once.
I cut all the parts myself with a standard round saw, although what you bought from the hardware store usually does (for a cost).
You can also use a hand saw if you have patience.
LegsEach for two 1200x405mm panels needs to be cut into two pieces, one 750mm and one 450mm.
The support beam needs to be cut to support the beam so it can be installed-
Between the legs.
I subtract the initial length (
4 times the thickness of the panel plus 2 times the thickness of the stretch slide).
1130mm.
Drawing slides we need to use drawing slides to connect two legs to make a long \"slide\" leg.
I installed the track about 100mm from the edge of the panel with the width of the slide (about 45. 5mm)
This makes the center of the slide about 123mm from the edge of the panel.
Gently draw a line where the center of each slide will be on all the leg panels.
Place the track on a longer leg with a large side face facing down.
Align the top of the track with the top of the panel to make sure that the end of the extended slider extends to the edge of the panel.
When you reach out the slides, you will see that there are many mounting holes, choose about 3 and mark their location on the line you draw for the center of the slides.
Do the same for another long panel, then flip the drawing slide and mark the mounting holes on the small end of the slide on the center line of the small panel.
Once you have marked all the mounting holes of the drawing slide, use a small bit of about 2mm to drill a small hole about 5mm deep at each mounting point.
Don\'t go all the way!
Mounting bracket we now need to mark the mounting hole of the bracket which holds the leg to the support beam and the leg to the desktop.
The table top I ended up using 3 brackets for each leg to hold the table top to the legs as my original two small brackets didn\'t look good enough.
Depending on the bracket you are using, you need to change their position on the panel.
For stands for mounting legs to the table top, mark the center of them (
Same as the slide, in my example, about 50mm from the edge, with one in the middle).
Align the center of the bracket with the center line and align the edge of the bracket with the end on a small leg panel (
Use scrap blocks or flat things to make sure the edges of the stand are square with the edges of the leg block).
After marking the position of the mounting hole, drill it out like a slide.
Support beam I attach a bracket to the center of both ends of the support beam, with a bracket on the bottom side of each end.
Knowing that the beam will be attached to the position of the leg, you can mark the position where the support beam bracket will be placed on the long leg panel and drill out the mounting holes.
After all the brackets and sliding mounting holes are drilled out, you can start to assemble it.
Connect the slide and bracket to the legs using 20mm wooden screws, then combine the two legs with the support beam.
Note: For brackets connected to the bottom edge of the support beam, you can use longer wooden screws to increase the support.
Time to mark the position of the lower side bracket on the desktop.
For my table the legs are connected directly to the center of the table top.
To calculate the position of the bracket on the underside of the desktop, I first calculated the difference between the width of the desktop and the width of the leg.
I divided this number by 2 and added it to the distance I placed the stand from the edge of the leg.
I removed a bracket from my leg and used it to mark the position of the mounting hole of the bracket.
Now is also a good time to mark the mounting holes for linear actuators.
The bracket has the position of two screw holes, the middle of which should be aligned with the center of the table.
After drilling out the mounting hole position, place the table top on the leg and attach the top to the bracket using screws (
Using the most external mounting holes, we will lift the table using the actuator to reveal the other mounting holes).
At this point, we can connect the linear actuator to the table.
The linear actuator is equipped with 2 mounting brackets.
One will connect to the support beam and the other will connect to the center of the desktop where we marked earlier.
The actuator is connected to the bracket using a single pin.
Attach the two brackets to the actuator and screw the top bracket to the underside of the table top.
Let the actuator hang under the table and move it to a position so that the bracket at the bottom of the actuator sits flat with the support beam.
Mark the mounting holes of the bottom bracket in the position on the support beam and drill them out.
At this point, you can use a 12 volt power supply to power the actuator and test the desk.
The internal limit switch will stop once the actuator reaches its maximum expansion (
Has also been fully signed).
If you want to finish the table top structure at this point, use the actuator to lift the table, expose the other mounting holes on the stand, and use more screws to secure the table top on the legs.
Now that we \'ve put the table together, it\'s time to take it apart!
The sanding is a bit optional, but it gives the table a better finish and it also eliminates any burrs generated during the cutting process.
At this point (before sanding)
I made a hole in the cable pipe.
Use the 60mm hole cutting drill to cut a hole in the back upper right corner of the desktop.
Cut down from the top of the table as it will provide a better finish by leaving fewer chips on the table.
Polish each panel with 240 sandpaper and gently polish all surfaces (
Wrapping sandpaper with a piece of wood will give you something to support).
When grinding, always remember to polish with grain and never go through grain.
Take the extra time to remove any debris or burrs on the edge of the cutting panel, as well as any pencil marks made when marking the position of the mounting hole.
Dyeing the wood is definitely optional, but in my case I want the table to be a bit darker, so I used walnut stains on all the pieces.
Wood dyeing will also reveal the complex patterns of wood (
And any scratches you make. . . . ). I use the off-
Cut off the support beam, test the stain I bought and be satisfied with the result I applied the stain to the table.
If you decide to get the wood dirty, here are some simple steps.
Paint is also optional, but it is highly recommended that even if you do not stain the wood, as it adds durability and gives a good finish to the table.
I used this oil base, satin, clear varnish and the result was great!
The basic steps to paint if you paint outside, pay attention to bugs, unlike how they look attracted by varnish, will stick to your lovely board.
The wiring of the electronic equipment is very direct and there is a wiring diagram on it.
The electronics consists of two main parts, the press box and the Arduino control and power supply.
The button BoxI uses a small aluminum box with a flange to contain buttons that control the height of the table.
The flange at the bottom of the box helps to install the box under the desktop.
Unfortunately, there are a lot of solid parts inside the box and you have to get into it.
That means you can\'t fix them with the nuts on the button, so I ended up sticking them together.
The back of the button is 12mm in diameter, so I opened two 12mm holes on one side of the box and drilled it out.
When drilling big holes like this (
Especially metal)
Don\'t start with 12mm bits, start with a small one and gradually increase the size of the bits until you reach 12mm bits.
To take into account the 4-core cable, I drilled a small 4mm hole on the back of the box.
Wiring I connect the button with a 10 kohm drop down resistor (
Although I don\'t think Nano is necessary).
The other side of the button is connected to 5 v, so the input pin gets higher when the button is pressed.
The 4-core wire carries two signals from the button, as well as 5 v and GND, and the cable tie inside the box helps to prevent the cable from being torn apart.
Now removing the table is a good time to mark the mounting holes in the press box.
I lined up the front of the box, flush the edge of the table on the right and mark the position of the hole and drill it out.
If you choose the right button then you really don\'t need micro
Controller or motor driver for this desk.
The reason I want to include one is that if a button is pressed, the table is either up completely or down.
It also opens the door for you to include other features like remote control on your desk.
Connect Arduino and motor controller (
Reference map)
The Arduino has two jobs, read the control from the button and relay the command to the motor controller to adjust the height of the desktop.
Button input to 2 digital pins on Arduino (
Pins 7 and 8 in my case)
, The three outputs required by the motor controller come from the three digital pins on the Arduino (4,5,6)
To the enable pin and the two inputs required for the motor A on the motor drive.
The Arduino code is very basic, it just waits for the button to be pressed and uses the \"pulse input\" function to determine if it is pressed at once or on both buttons (
Press 2 times in 1 second).
On the double press, the motor will open in the direction of 50 seconds, which is about the time it takes for the table to move completely in one direction.
This technique may be a bit of a problem, but it\'s not a big enough problem for me to want to change it.
Depending on which button is pressed, the motor controller drives the actuator motor forward or backward.
If the button is not pressed, the motor will be disabled.
The motor that supplies the linear actuator needs 12 V and the voltage is about 0.
Luckily, I found a 12-year-old. 9V, 1.
I have laid the 39A switch mode power supply and decided to use it.
Since the Power board I bought used with the table had only 4 ports, I decided to sneak on and cut two 240 V rated wires to the inside of the Power board.
Do not do this if you are unfamiliar or uncomfortable with handling high pressure!
The case to turn the power on is the only way to enter.
You will find a beautiful self in the box.
Contains the switch mode power module.
I removed the existing high voltage lines and replaced them with longer ones.
It was a bit difficult to turn on the Power board because I didn\'t want to damage the case and there was no proper safety screw.
After the Power board was turned on, I drilled a small hole for the wire and welded them to the power rail of the Power board (
This is for communication, so it doesn\'t matter which direction around you to weld them).
As you can see from the picture, I 3D printed the custom housing for Arduino, motor drive and power supply.
I won\'t talk about how I did this because there are a lot of 3D design tutorials and designing your own box is not really necessary, but I will include the STL of my box.
It\'s time to put the newly dyed and painted table back together with all the electronics!
I started reassembling the legs and support beams.
The easiest way to do this is to put a leg down, stand in place, and screw the support beam to this point.
By supporting the support beam on the stand of the other leg, you can screw the entire leg/support beam structure together.
I installed the control box and the Power board before I installed the desktop.
On the back of most power boards (mine had two)
Slot is being installed.
You need two small screws to use these (
Usually included)
Screw them directly into the back of the support beam (
Interval the same distance as the slot on the back of the Power board).
You then \"slide\" the Power board to these screws to install it.
To install the box containing the control electronics, I just fixed the box to the back of the support beam with three screws, close to the Power board.
When you\'re done, you can load the desktop like you did when you first assembled.
** Summary if you forget ** now we can install the button box!
Use 4 screws to connect the box to the mounting hole that was previously created.
If you want to implement some cable management for the table, the cable clips shown in the picture are very good for this table.
Comments on the final building I have only two issues with the design, all around the linear actuator.
Motor noise is an obvious problem, but the stability of the table is a bit confusing for me.
Obviously, because there is only one support point in the middle, there will be a little big --
Seeing the motion, but the problem seems to be magnified by the fact that the actuator tends to bend, I\'m not sure adding another actuator will solve the problem completely.
The good news is that when a bit of weight is loaded, a screen computer, etc, the desktop moves less.
Overall, it took only a few weeks for the project to be completed and it was not difficult.
Like my girlfriend, I am very happy with the end result and will definitely try to come up with more wood products/electronics projects in the future.
Good luck to all of you trying to make it yourself!
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