universal nut sheller

by:Meixin     2020-04-23
This machine was invented by Jock Brandis at the request of a women\'s cooperative in Mali, and later he willfound an non-
The International Organization for profit development called it a project for developing countries.
About 1/2 people in the world rely on peanuts as a major source of protein.
Most people only have 2 lbs of hand shells (1 kg)
Peanuts for an hour, but this machine can do 110lbs (50 kg)an hour.
In addition, the machine is actually able to shell a variety of nuts, including neem, Shea shell (Avocado)
The machine uses two sets of fiberglass molds ($550)
Some common metal parts, some cement and sand. The cost (
Freight is not included)
The price of a set of molds and enough parts to make 3 machines is $700.
The mold and metal parts can be ordered from the complete belly item.
We only ask that you provide us with feedback when distributing our equipment and commend our organization for inventing the machine.
Take a look at our video of introducing the machine to Uganda on 2005: After positioning the outer rotor mold, wipe the inner surface of the outer rotor mold with cooking grease or heavy oil.
This ensures that the concrete is easily released from the mold.
Find the inner rotor mold and prepare for lubrication.
Wipe the smooth outer surface of the inner rotor mold with cooking grease or heavy oil.
Install the shortest screw bar with nuts and washers on both sides of the outer rotor mold, revealing enough threads to make the gasket and nut tightly connected.
Insert the Maximum shaft with two connected plates into the center hole thread end and enter first.
The thread end must be down or you will not be able to assemble your machine.
Assemble the stool by connecting the legs and rotating tubes to the center bracket.
Place the outer rotor mold on the stool and pass through the pipe at the other end by sliding the extended shaft through the hole on the stool.
The bolts extended from the mold should fall into two large holes on both sides of the center shaft.
Slide the inner rotor mold onto the shaft. Spin Lock Nut (
Nut with welded flat bar)
On the shaft thread, tighten the hand.
Install the wooden fixture on the exposed shaft to keep the inner rotor mold pressed down.
Check if the lock nut is tight.
The clip is there to prevent the mold from floating on the top of the liquid concrete.
Use hard sand, sand blasting or river sand to avoid coral breakage.
Mix sand and cement in a mixture of 50/50.
Pour the concrete into the mold so that it is within the approximately finger width at the top of the inner rotor mold lip.
Let\'s stand until the sharp object can still scratch the groove on the surface.
Concrete is cured faster in a warm climate.
Make sure you put it in a horizontal position.
Important note: If there is a bubble level, use the bubble level or do your best to level the assembly as this ensures that the rotor is \"real\" inside the outer sheet (stator).
Note: these steps should be completed when the concrete is still soft enough to brush the surface to make it rough
Warning: If there is still a long time left in the concrete, it will be difficult to brush and the surface will remain smooth.
If this happens, break the cement from the shaft and start again.
Depending on the type of cement, the temperature and the humidity of the mixture, the time will vary.
Remove the bottom lock nut from the stool and lift the rotor mold.
Remove 2 nuts from the bottom of the mold for the release of the connected screw bar.
Gently pry out the center hub using the bottom and top bracket.
Put the rotor into the mold and place it on the block with a central axis between the blocks.
Loosen one side with a piece of wood.
Gently place the entire assembly on the block until the concrete is released.
Before preparing the mold for use, please check that the side expansion joints are free, that there is no residual mortar, or that the seals should be clean to any type of foreign matter connected.
You can also clean the expansion joint of the mold with a knife or similar tool, and bolt the side together to seal it. Do not over-tighten bolts.
Wipe the inner surface of the external stator mold with cooking grease generously so that it can be easily released later.
There should be a plastic lining in your kit.
This is used to help release the inner stator mold.
However, if the liner needs to be replaced, it can be done with any heavy plastic liner.
Just cut a piece of mold that meets the inner stator.
Once you have cut off the part of the plastic lining, continue to seal the seam with adhesive tape.
If there is padding above the mold, trim it with scissors.
Make the lining fit around the mold as smoothly as possible.
Any folds in the plastic weaken the concrete.
Once done, simply slide the liner to the top of the mold.
You will then be able to reuse the padding in more machines. Insert four (4)
The screw bar is bent into 4 holes in the inner stator mold, leaving two opposite holes, as shown in the figure.
The Thse lever is used to connect the handle.
Be sure to turn the bar to keep the tip away from the surface of the mold (see image. )
Place a washer and nut above and below the lip, leaving three finger widths above the inner stator mold lip.
Insert the inner stator mold into the outer stator mold.
The center pin will slide into the hole in the center of the inner stator mold and insert the pin in the center.
Insert the longest threaded rod into the two remaining holes of the inner stator, which pass through the bottom of the outer stator mold and are fixed by washers and nuts.
Fix each bolt with washers and nuts and fix the two mold parts together.
Mix hard sand and cement in a mixture of half and a half, sandblasting sand or river sand, not coral or fine sand.
On the horizontal plane, on the horizontal plane, pouring concrete between molds, using fine bars to remove air only if necessary.
Don\'t fill in too much.
Fill within 1 cm of the top of the mold.
Let the setting and hardening until the sharp object can still form a groove on the surface, and the hardening time varies with the temperature and the local cement type.
It was not until the cement was hardened that there was a consistency of steilafom.
Use the bubble level in several directions to make sure it is level and straight.
Note: monitor the cement when it is hardened.
When the surface is hard but may be scratched, remove the internal model and plastic lining when rough the surface with a brush.
After concrete, styrafoam takes out all six nuts and washers from the mold.
Use the upper and lower bracket to pry and lift the inner stator mold.
Pull out the plastic liner to save the liner for later use. (
However, it can easily be replaced if it does tear).
Leave the stator in the external mold and use the wire brush to draw the inner surface of the stator using a vertical pen until the surface is rough.
The machine with smooth inner surface will work very badly.
If the concrete is too hard to brush off the stator on the mold, please break the metal pieces and start again.
Set the time after the last 12 hours-
Remove the remaining 2 nuts.
Loosen the nut with the expansion joint closed.
Pry open two joints 1 cm.
Lift the mold from the stator.
Smooth edges.
Fix the bracket on the exposed rebar with loose nuts and washers.
Center tube for opening.
Load as much heavy mechanical grease as possible into the top bearing.
You will want to install the stator with the additional top bracket on the top of the concrete block (cinder blocks)
Or something of a similar shape, watch out for the stand hanging between the block and the ground.
Gently insert the upside down rotor into the Upside Down stator.
The reason the stator is placed on the block is to give the rotor shaft space to go through the support pipe.
Wrap the bottom bearing tube with heavy machine grease.
Identify two rebar bars that are also connected to the top bracket.
Identify the other end of the threaded rod that holds the top bracket.
Place a nut on each nut and then a gasket.
Sliding bearing pipe (
Bottom bracket)onto shaft.
Install the nuts and washers on the bottom mounting bolts and tighten them.
Cutting and drilling of wooden pallets.
You can find out where the hole should be by placing a bracket on the rebar and then hitting the top of the wood with another bracket, leaving a logo from the rebar to show you where the hole should be.
Connect to the bottom of the machine using the remaining washers and nuts on each screw bar.
You will be careful now that two people turn the machine to one side and be careful not to let the shaft slide down from the stand. Grease 4 (four)
Large washers and mounted on the top threaded end of the shaft.
When the machine is still on the side, rotate the handle onto the threaded shaft and install the lock nut as shown in the figure.
This is the layout of the measuring plate of the shell stripping machine.
The bigger half of the installation
Turn the plate around first so that the gap will meet.
Then install the small plate on the top and fix it with the wingnut.
Rotate the smaller board in either direction to open or close the gap.
This is shown outside of the shelling machine, but you will actually do this step with the rotor inside the stator.
Mounted on a box or on a 1/2 oil barrel or other support.
Adjust to raise or lower the rotor for larger or smaller nuts.
Raise the rotor to release the lock nut and the swivel handle to expose more threads on the shaft.
Lower the rotor to do the opposite.
Setting of nut size: Peel nut by hand.
The clearance of the metering plate drops.
If the nut goes through the bottom of the machine, lift the rotor by turning the handle clockwise.
If the nut fails to pass, please lower the rotor until it passes.
Tighten the lock nut at this time.
Fine tuning: 1 liter of nuts in the shell.
Reduce the rotor if the damage rate is high.
Please lift the rotor if there are too many nuts without housing.
For nuts of various sizes, you may have to set it up for large nuts and separate the small nuts that are not housing and then go through the machine again.
Look for the volume of the nut shell: if the nut shell is too slow.
Loosen the wing nut on the metering plate and adjust the top plate to open the gap.
Set for larger nuts if you want to set for larger nuts, you may have to undo the two small bols on the top bearing tube with an adjustable wrench and drop the entire assembly if necessary
Introduce sheller to the villages.
This machine is available on any small farm that grows peanuts, pecans, nee Wood nuts, Wing Bean palm nuts, shea butter and pine nuts.
You can even find other nuts that it can shell (
Please let us know if you do).
People in these villages will thank profusley, and their children will also thank profusley, who usually need to spend hours shelling nuts.
This is the picture of our down-to-earth agricultural center (PPAC)
, Basically it adds a universal nut shell stripping machine (UNS)
By powering its pedals, the number of peanuts that can be shelled from 50 kg (110lbs)to 90 kg (200 lbs)an hour.
The machine is placed on the oil barrel base, and with the oil barrel top 1/4 being used to make a squirrel fan, after the housing comes out of the UNS, it acts as a blower to separate the housing from the nut.
The rest of the machine consists of pipes, several pulleys, belts and wooden bearings.
The rate of peanut damage is amazing (
This is very important because if the paper skin of the broken peanuts is torn off, they will stink)is only 5%.
The industry standard is 20%, the price of motors similar to output is much more expensive, and the electricity consumption is about 40%.
We tested this machine in the Philippines (
Illac Diaz\'s efforts and myshelf Foundation)
Very successful.
In addition, we also won the MIT Creative Award for this, and once again thank Illac Diaz, who coordinated our participation.
We will get instructions on how to make it as soon as possible.
But if you need more information, go to our website right away
Full bellyproject.
Org also looks at our blog on full belllyblog. blogspot.
Comfull belllyblog. blogspot. com www.
Full bellyproject.
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